You'll come a-running when the breakfast cook hollers, "The pancakes are ready!" A steaming stack of hotcakes and sunny yellow butter are on the table along with some bacon. So is a pitcher of syrup. But just what is that stuff you are about to pour, pure maple syrup or a factory-constructed sugary topping? Big, big difference.

Maple syrup has been poured since Native Americans discovered the sweetness of the sap of the maple tree, but "pancake syrup" is a fairly modern invention. Log Cabin concocted the first version in 1887 as a cost-saver. It contained about 45 percent maple syrup, and the rest was corn syrup. As more wannabe brands joined the field, the maple syrup content dropped. Now it's out of the equation.

I recently compared two kinds of syrup at the local Foodland.

Aunt Jemima Original Syrup, 24 ounces for $4.75, contains corn syrup, high-fructose corn syrup, water, cellulose gum, caramel color and preservatives. It's pretty much the same for the other folks in the neighborhood, Hungry Jack and Mrs. Butterworth.

Spring Tree Maple Syrup, Grade A dark amber, 12.5 ounces for $10.37, contains maple syrup. And this brand is at the low supermarket end of syrups. Usually the price is much higher.

If maple syrup seems too dear for your wallet, consider the numbers.

It takes four maple trees, at least 40 years old, to yield enough sap in the short six-week season - 40 gallons of it - to produce one gallon of syrup. And there is a limited supply of trees.

Said sap has to be collected and transported to the sugar house for boiling in an evaporator. The work is labor intensive.

It takes one cord of wood or 60 gallons of oil to boil 800 gallons of syrup. Now depending of the size of the evaporator used, that would require anywhere from two hours to two days.

To put it in perspective, imagine a breakfast for four: It takes two gallons of sap to produce one cup of liquid gold for your pancake breakfast - that is, if everyone keeps to one quarter cup per serving.

As for cost complaints then, mute your pie hole.

Maple facts

Like wine and olive oil, maple syrup has a complex flavor profile. And because it is a natural product, its flavors vary. Some syrups are light and bright; some are darker, with more depth. Thoughtful tasters can find hints of honey, wood, smoke, caramel and chocolate. Scientists have instruments to identify more than 300 flavor compounds in a variety of syrups.

Although there are federal standards, maple syrups vary in sweetness because of environmental factors such as weather. In the syrup kitchen, the liquid can be boiled too long or not long enough or at too high a temperature.

For long-term storage, if you are lucky enough to buy in quantity, transfer maple syrup to jars, leaving at least an inch of head room, and freeze it. For lesser amounts, store syrup in clear glass containers and keep it cold.

If the cap sticks from syrup build-up, run it under hot water. Better yet, rinse the cap and wipe the bottle threads before you put it back in the fridge.

Make DIY maple butter by beating one stick of butter (a half cup) until creamy. Then slowly add a quarter cup of maple syrup, beating constantly so the mixture doesn't separate. Use it on breakfast breads or as an icing for cinnamon rolls or scones. When maple syrup is mixed into a hot sauce like sriracha, it can be used for a sweet/hot glaze for ham.

If using maple syrup in a cake seems too expensive, make a maple butter frosting. Cream together a stick of butter until creamy, beat in 3 cups of confectioners sugar and slowly add 4 to 6 tablespoons of maple syrup until it all comes together. A maple frosting's best friends are chopped walnuts or pecans. Try this on a spice cake for a winning dessert.

In the kitchen

If pancakes and waffles are your end use for maple syrup, branch out with our PG-tested recipes.

• Nutmeg Maple Custard Pie. This is rich and velvety bliss. Imagine something so good that started out as sap and came from a tree.

• Maple Sour Cream Bran Muffins. These babies have it all - maple syrup, sour cream, butter, brown sugar, bran flakes, raisins and walnuts, with just enough flour and eggs to hold everything together.

• Maple-Roasted Root Vegetables. At winter's end, suppers can get tiresome. The concentrated flavors of roasted vegetables tossed with sweet maple syrup matches well to a baked ham slice or roasted chicken.

• Indian Pudding. Or to be PC, Native American Pudding. This is the best version of what is said to be the oldest New England dessert. And for good reason. A scoop of vanilla ice cream on this hot pudding will transport you to Vermont.

For 96 other good ideas, buy "The Maple Syrup Cookbook: Over 100 Recipes for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner" by Ken Haedrich. The paperback came out in 1989 and is an absolute winner. Amazon.com has copies for as low as $4.

Where to buy

Why stop with syrup? Especially here in the Northeast and in Canada, maple products are everywhere. Buy them when you see them.

• At Soergel's Farm Market in Franklin Park. Find maple syrups, maple butter, maple sugar candies and maple sugar for sprinkling on cereal.

• At Mon Aimee Chocolates in the Strip District. Find maple creams in dark chocolate from Roger's Chocolate in Victoria, Canada. Also Roger's Chocolate Milk or Dark Chocolate with Maple bars. And until they run out, buy Pure Maple Sugar Leaves.

• At Eleven Contemporary Kitchen in the Strip District, try a Maple Martini, if you like maple flavor with a kick. Mixologist Maggie Meskey created it by shaking Sortilege maple whiskey liqueur from Quebec with Tanqueray gin, honey and her homemade chocolate bitters.

Nutmeg Maple Custard Pie

PG tested

This maple custard pie is almost like a creme brulee in a crust. A brittle crust seals the top of the ultra-rich filling. Or, if you like, serve the slices with a drizzle of maple syrup. As the filling bakes, it will puff up, or souffle. It will settle down as it cools. Be sure not to overbake.

• 3/4 cup maple syrup
• 2 1/4 cups heavy cream
• 4 egg yolks
• 1 whole egg
• 1/4 teaspoon table salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 pre-baked, 9-inch pie crust
• Optional: 1/2 cup brown sugar

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, reduce maple syrup by a quarter, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in cream and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat.

In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks and egg. Whisking constantly, slowly add cream mixture to eggs. Strain mixture through a fine sieve into a cup or bowl with a pouring spout. Stir in salt, nutmeg and vanilla.

Pour filling into a crust and transfer to a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until pie is firm to touch but jiggles slightly when moved, about 1 hour. Let cool to room temperature before serving.

To make a crunch brulee topping

To make a brittle caramel crust, refrigerate the pie until it is well chilled. Just before serving, sift the brown sugar evenly over the top to form an even layer.

Use a small kitchen torch to caramelize the sugar like this: Set the sugar-topped pie on a work surface and ignite the torch. Adjust the intensity of the flame. Hold the flame close to the surface of the custard until the sugar begins to melt quickly. Move the flame gradually in small circles over the surface of the custard, heating the sugar until it is evenly melted and golden brown.

Makes 8 servings.

- Adapted from The New York Times.

Maple-Roasted Root Vegetables

PG tested

Maple sugaring time comes just about when the root cellar is nearly empty. Oven roasting concentrates vegetable flavors and the syrup pulls it all together. Roast a chicken and there's dinner. The house-apartment-condo will smell wonderful.

• 3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1 1/4-inch chunks
• 3 medium parsnips, peeled and cut into 1 1/4-inch chunks
• 1 small ( 1/2-pound) yellow turnip, peeled and cut into 1 1/4-inch chunks
• 4 tablespoons butter
• 1/2 cup maple syrup
• 1/4 cup bourbon or rum
• 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Arrange the carrots, parsnips and turnips in a single layer in a shallow roasting pan.

Heat the butter and maple syrup in a small saucepan just until the butter is melted, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in the rum.

Pour the maple mixture over the vegetables, and toss to coat. Sprinkle the vegetables with salt and pepper to taste.

Cover the pan with aluminum foil and bake for 25 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven, stir the vegetables and bake, uncovered, until tender, 20 to 25 minutes longer.

- "The Maple Syrup Cookbook" by Ken Haedrich (Storey, 2009)

Maple Sour Cream Bran Muffins

PG tested

This ab-fab recipe took first prize in the 1999 recipe contest sponsored by the Wisconsin Maple Syrup Producers Association.

• 1 cup flour
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• Pinch salt
• 1 cup bran flakes
• 1/3 cup raisins
• 1/2 cup chopped walnuts
• 1 cup pure maple syrup
• 1 cup sour cream
• 2 large eggs
• For the topping
• 3 tablespoons flour
• 2 tablespoons brown sugar
• 1 tablespoon butter

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Grease a 12-cup muffin tin and set aside.

Sift the flour, baking soda and salt into a medium-size bowl. Add the bran flakes, raisins and walnuts.

Combine the maple syrup, sour cream and eggs in a small bowl. Add them all at once to the dry ingredients, and stir until just blended. Using a 1/3- or 1/2-cup measure, fill the muffin cups three-quarters full with the mixture.

For the topping

Combine the flour and sugar in a small bowl. Cut in the butter until the mixture is crumbly. Sprinkle the topping on the batter in the cups.

Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the muffins are golden brown. Makes 12.

- "Maple Syrup Cookbook" by Ken Haedrich (Storey, 1989).

Baked Maple Popcorn

PG tested

Most sweetened popcorns require dealing with boiling sugar and the dreaded softball stage. This recipe is simple. Pop corn, mix other ingredients, combine and bake. You can halve the recipe easily, but you might as well make the whole thing. Be sure to store in an airtight container.

• 1 cup popping corn
• 1 cup (2 sticks) butter
• 1/2 cup maple syrup
• 2 cups packed brown sugar
• 1 teaspoon shaker salt
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Heat oven to 250 degrees. Pop popcorn according to package directions. Put popped corn in a large (slightly buttered) bowl or roaster pot.

In a saucepan, melt butter, add maple syrup, brown sugar and salt. Boil on medium heat without stirring for 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in baking soda and vanilla and stir to combine.

Pour gradually over popped corn and mix well. Turn onto large baking sheets with sides (a full recipe will take 4 sheets). Bake for 1 hour, stirring every 15 minutes. Remove from oven and cool.

This recipe feeds a gang. A half recipe will make 4 generous servings.

- Martin and Jean Collins of Collins Tree Farm and Sugarhouse, Putney, Vt.

Indian Pudding

PG tested

This is way better than Boston's Durgin Park Indian Pudding.

• 5 cups milk
• 2/3 cups cornmeal
• 1 cup maple syrup
• 1 cup raisins (golden preferred)
• 4 tablespoons butter
• 1 tablespoon molasses
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1/2 teaspoon salt

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Grease a shallow 9-by-13-inch oven-safe dish.

Heat the milk in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Slowly sprinkle in the cornmeal, whisking as you do so. Switch from the whisk to a wooden spoon and continue to cook and stir for about 10 minutes until the mixture has thickened. Reduce the heat, add the maple syrup, raisins, butter, molasses, cinnamon, ginger and salt, and stir for 2 minutes more.

Pour into the prepared baking dish and bake for 21?2 hours. Serve warm with scoops of vanilla ice cream. Makes about 8 servings.

- "Maple Syrup Cookbook" by Ken Haedrich (Storey, 1989).

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