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Canoe-camping adventures put paddlers in touch with nature
Sunday, August 10, 2008

Floating Pennsylvania's waterways can be an exciting multi-day experience that can connect Pittsburghers with the lifeblood of their city's existence: the magnificent water system.

Lewis and Clark, the unofficial founders of the Pittsburgh canoe camping community, left the city in 1803 on their way to the Pacific Ocean with large flat-bottomed boats and canoes.

Contemporary canoes provide a safer and more portable form of recreational transportation. Overnight canoe camping is a very accessible activity given that it is often done on the nearby Allegheny, Clarion, and Youghiogheny rivers.

Camping float trips relieve some of the stress of reaching trip's end by breaking the journey into manageable sections. Local rivers offer well-established campsites that have been used for generations, and water conditions are suitable and safe for all ages and abilities.

The Allegheny River offers an expansive stretch of prime canoeing water between Kinzua Dam in Warren County and Oil City in Venango County. Numerous canoe and equipment outfitters line the river's banks.

"It's the best canoeing river in the world," said Paula Cook, co-owner of Eagle Rock Canoe Rentals in Tionesta. Her company has been outfitting multiple-day canoe trips since 1981.

Eagle Rock's trip begins with a shuttle bus ride to Kinzua Dam, where the canoes are put in, and ends two or three days later at Tionesta in Forest County. The customer must supply all camping equipment, while boats, paddles and life jackets are supplied by the outfitter.

"The upper Allegheny has no big boats, and never gets so shallow that you can't canoe," said Cook.

Kinzua Dam regulates the amount of water released into the northern section of the Allegheny River, so the river remains navigable during excessively dry and wet summers. However, it is important to abstain from canoeing when high water reaches dangerous levels.

The Allegheny is popular among canoe campers because of its large islands that provide excellent campsites. There are seven islands between the Kinzua Dam and Tionesta that are under the jurisdiction of the U.S. Forest Service. These islands are open to public camping. Campers often spend the night on privately owned islands, but this should be avoided if the property is clearly marked as posted. All islands may be entered in the case of an emergency.

"The campsites are primitive, and that's nice," said Ron Schmiddel, an assistant scoutmaster with Boy Scout Troop 329 of McCandless. The troop went on Eagle Rock's Kinzua-to-Tionesta trip, which took about 21/2 days. "That's a trip we'll go back to."

A good day of canoeing the Allegheny will push paddlers approximately 15 miles. Fish and wildlife are abundant, and visitors may even see one of the bald eagles in the area. Anglers may catch trout, walleye, bass, northern pike and muskellunge anywhere along the river.

The Clarion River offers a slightly different experience. Its waters are shallower, and state game lands surround its banks.

"This is a perfect river for people who have never canoed," said Brent Lipford, owner of Cook Forest Canoe Rental in Cooksburg, on the Clarion-Jefferson county line. His overnight trip begins near Hallton and can end in Cooksburg (25 miles) or Clarington (28 miles).

Cook Forest Canoe owns its campsite, and novices who don't wish to carry their gear can drive it in by car before they begin paddling. Camping is not allowed within the state game lands.

"It's a beautiful river," said Lipford. "You're away from everybody; there is peace and quiet. A lot of people leave their kids at home and do it."

Bald eagles and black bear are often sighted during the Clarion float, while smallmouth bass and large brown trout entice anglers to the area.

The Youghiogheny River is known for its whitewater and is popular among rafting and kayaking enthusiasts. But the section of river downstream from Connellsville is very conducive to a multiple day canoe tip.

Frank Berarducci, part owner of Youghiogheny Canoe Outfitters, offers a trip from Connellsville to West Newton.

The river is "pristine and beautiful," said Beraducci, "The fishing is outstanding, and there is no heavy boat traffic."

Beraducci suggests camping on Layton Island and recommends the trip for all ages. Other campsites include the Sandy Beach take-out point and Rivers Edge Family Campground. This stage of the river has Class 1 rapids, similar to the mild sections of the Allegheny and Clarion.

The Youghiogheny, or "Yough," is known for its large boulders and stony bottom. This makes for excellent fish habitat, but water-shoes are a necessity. Paddlers can enjoy visiting relics of the railroad industry, including a pump house that serviced steam engines.

Reservations are encouraged at all of the canoe outfitters, due to the approach of the peak-paddling season.

Adequate equipment is necessary for canoe camping, and should be tested before setting out on your own. A tent, dry bags, camp stove, sleeping bags, water shoes, food, water, personal flotation devices and a reliable canoe and paddle are absolutely necessary for overnight trips.

Jesse Twichell of Exkursion Outfitters in Monroeville advises novice paddlers to make sure they have a comfortable PFD and remain careful while paddling on large waters like the Allegheny and Clarion.

"Be aware of the time of year and what the water level is like," said Twichell. "... After a summer storm, the water levels can rise pretty quickly."

State law requires all boats to have PFDs for all people on board.

Allegheny National Forest representatives encourage personal responsibility when it comes to the safety of campers and their surroundings.

"We encourage people to use leave-no-trace ethics" said Robert Weatherell, the park's recreation program manager. This includes the safe storage of food and the personal removal of all waste products that were packed in by campers, decreasing the possibility of a negative interaction between campers, wildlife and wilderness.

Other multi-day canoeing ideas include canoeing or kayaking on Lake Erie and floats down Oil Creek and Tionesta Creek near Oil City, and French Creek near Meadville.

Chris Elnicki can be reached at celnicki@post-gazette.com or 412-263-1934.
First published on August 10, 2008 at 12:00 am